Timeless (and current) wines of Paolo Bea

Cotidie

“Cotidie” (“quotidian” in Latin) was conceived as an “everyday” wine for its relatively easygoing and drinkable spirit. The methodology behind it feels outré today but would have been common practice for the ancients to whom its Latin name pays tribute: a co-fermentation of both red and white grapes—in this case, Sagrantino and Trebbiano—grown in close proximity to one another, and yielding a lip-smacking wine that’s hard to pigeonhole. In its vibrant ruby color, it sits in the interzone between a dark rosato and a light red, and it offers the heady spice we all love in Bea’s Sagrantino, albeit on a softer, lighter frame.” – Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Importer

“Translucent ruby with an amber hue, the 2021 Rosso Cotidie opens with a vividly fresh bouquet of wild strawberries, cherry pits, sweet sage and lavender. It’s lifted and finessed yet potent all the same. Juicy acidity enlivens masses of ripe wild berry fruits. A mineral tinge adds poise, and violet inner florals cascade throughout. There’s simply so much going on here, tapering off long and gently tannic, with tart cranberries and hints of exotic spice that echo on. This is a total pleasure to taste. The Rosso Cotidie is an equal parts blend of Sagrantino and Trebbiano Spoletino. This note was taken at room temperature, yet I can’t help but think that a slight chill would also serve it well. Beautiful.” – Eric Guido, Vinous

“The 2016 San Valentino pours a deep ruby purple with a near opaque core; medium body. On the palate, the wine shows fascinating notes of ripe cherry, blackberry, exotic spices, wild underbrush, old leather and rich woody notes, and dried rocky earth. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium tannins and a lovely finish- surprisingly nimble and super versatile.” – E.G.

“Darkly floral and earthy upon opening, the 2018 Rosso San Valentino slowly evolves with hints of crushed ashen stone and dusty dried flowers giving way to crushed black raspberries. The palate dials the energy up high, sleek and racy with vibrant red berry fruits accentuated by rosy inner florals and touches of citrus. It finishes with tremendous length, a licorice tinge, and a coating of fine tannins, framing the experience remarkably well. This is a Rosso San Valentino that will excel upon release but also through medium-term cellaring.” – E.G.

“The 2019 Rosso San Valentino is impossible to ignore, with a bouquet that reminds me of Christmas morning. A burst of black cherries, allspice and clove give way to dark chocolate and mint. This displays textures of pure silk, lifted and energetic, with depths of ripe wild berry fruits and a core of stimulating acidity that keeps the palate reeling. The 2019 finishes staining, long and lightly structured, with grippy tannins that tug at the cheeks. However, through it all, the final note is freshness. The 2019 is a high-energy and loveable Rosso San Valentino that will turn many heads.” – E.G.

The 2015 Rosso de Veo is monstrously intense yet wonderfully balanced, showing masses of crushed black cherry, balsamic spice, stone dust and wild, exotic florals on the nose. Velvety textures give way to ripe red and blue berries with a spicy-citrus twang, backed by stimulating acids, as saline-minerality saturates under a coating of liquid violets. This finishes long, staining the palate with fruit concentrate and grippy tannins, yet considering how structured this is, there’s a balance here that provides plenty of pleasure already. This is simply gorgeous and has a very bright future ahead of it. – E.G.

“The 2019 Rosso de Veo is intense, with a burst of dried black cherries, autumnal spices and rubbed sage. This is a dark and brooding vintage for Veo, with depths of ripe red and blue fruit propelled by zesty acidity. Saline minerals saturate, and a primary concentration forms toward the close. It finishes dramatically long and tannic, yet they are round and soft contoured. Licorice and a tart cranberry concentration linger on and on. While labeled as Umbria Rosso, the Rosso de Veo could easily be a Montefalco Sagrantino, filling a happy place in the portfolio that adds a lot of value for lovers of Paolo Bea.” – E.G.

“Deeply alluring with dark exotic spices, balsam herbs and hints of dried citrus, the 2015 Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello makes itself known. This is deeply textural, enveloping the palate with silken waves of ripe black cherries, balsamic spice and inner tobacco tones. It echoes with black fruits and mentholated herbs while tapering off with fine yet wonderfully rounded tannins. This is a ripe yet perfectly balanced vintage that should be a beauty after medium-term cellaring. There is simply so much pleasure to be had here. The Pipparello is a blend of 60% Sangiovese, 25% Sagrantino and 15% Bocca Rossa (Montepulciano).” – E.G.

“Dark, inward and balsamic, the 2016 Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello lifts from the glass with masses of smoky crushed stone, ash, wild herbs and dried black cherries. This is a vertical yet also racier than the 2017, with herbal-tinged red berries and minerals that penetrate deeply; all is nicely energized by brisk acidity. A staining of primary concentration lingers incredibly long, and yet the mouth is still left watering for more, as the 2016 finishes structured yet incredibly fresh. This is possibly the best and most complete rendition of Pipparello that I have ever tasted, and a total standout from this classic vintage in Montefalco.” – E.G.

“The 2017 Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello bursts from the glass with smoky grilled herbs, shaved cedar, dried cherries, currants, hints of spiced citrus… the list goes on and on. It washes across the palate with soft, fleshy textures and masses of balsamic-tinged dark red fruits, yet at the core, stimulating acidity creates a wildly energetic expression. This finishes remarkably long and potent, already providing pleasure through its primary components. The 2017 has a long story to tell, as grippy tannins slowly resolve under an air of rosy inner florals. This is Pipparello on steroids.” – E.G.

“The 2018 Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello wows the senses with a burst of medicinal cherries, dusty sage and exotic spice. This is lifted and full of energy with a sweet and sour twang of citrus and sour berries excited by zesty acidity. The 2018 tapers off with a gentle tug of fine-grained tannins and lingering concentration, leaving the palate clenched with youthful poise yet still aching for another sip. The 2018 may not be as long lived as bigger vintages, but its a total charmer. This went through 51 days of maceration without temperature control and was refined for 34 months in large barrels.” – E.G.

“It’s not often that I would open a Paolo Bea note with “unbelievably pretty” or “sweetly scented and finessed”, but that’s exactly what the 2017 Montefalco Sagrantino Pagliaro is in the glass. This is a veritable spice box on the nose, mixed with masses of dried flowers and exotic spices. Its textures are pure silk, showing a refinement not often found at this early stage in the wine’s development. Dark red fruit melds with their mineral underpinnings to create an impression of total elegance. The mentholated finale leaves a subtle layer of fine tannins to mingle with hints of blackberry and currant, as the wine finishes long yet lively and fresh. The 2017 spent 42 days macerating on the skins.” – E.G.

“Exotic from the first tilt of the glass, the 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino Pagliaro is youthfully intense, with a blend of rum-soaked cherries and a cascade of sweet spice, mixing dried violets with cloves, ashen stones and blood orange. This is elegant and refined, with silken textures and admirable weight, all supported by fresh acidity, as masses of ripe blueberry blend with sage and a salty tinge of minerality. A balsamic twang saturates the palate as the 2019 finishes staining and long with a saturation of primary concentration and a pleasantly bitter tinge that lingers over a bed of fine-grained tannins. Just a baby today, the 2019 is geared for the cellar. This is a spellbinding vintage of Pagliaro.” – E.G.

“The 2012 Montetalco Sagrantino Cerrete is a darkly alluring and sultry beauty, verging on rustic in the best possible way, as balsam herbs, sweet tobacco, crushed cherries and a lifting hint of mint swirls up from the glass. Its rich textures are nicely contrasted by vibrant, wild berry fruits and tantalizing acidity, yet this comes across as mellow and bassy in nature with inner tobacco and sweet herbs. A staining of concentration lingers throughout the long and dramatic finale, pinching at the cheeks with grippy tannins that are balanced by a mouthwatering sensation that maintains freshness. This is quite a different experience, significantly more approachable, from the 2012 that I tasted last year.” – E.G.

“The 2015 Montefalco Sagrantino Cerrete wafts up with a smoky burst of camphor that blows off to reveal a pretty mix of wild strawberries, dried roses, cinnamon and peppery herbs. This is silky yet cool-toned in feel, with a pleasant twang of sour citrus up front that gives way to vivid tart cherries. It’s potent and staining, but also full of energy, with vibrant acids and a mineral underpinning that both pepper yet also soothe the senses. The 2015 finishes incredibly long, with balsamic tones and exotic spices that seem to last for up to a minute. Silky tannins coat the palate at first then slowly melt away and create a sense of total inner harmony. With a few years of cellaring, I expect the 2015 Cerrete to be a total knockout. Of note, there will not be a 2013 or 2014 Cerrete.” – E.G.

Santa Chiara

“A white wine produced from Grechetto, Malvasia, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Garganega, in approximately equal proportions. Compared to the relatively racy Arboreus and the typically chis- eled Lapideus, the Santa Chiara often swaggers out of the bot- tle with macerated peaches, brassy spice notes, a liberal dash of white pepper, and candied citrus. Despite its somewhat explosive and brash personality, it possesses terrific drive and a focused, tannin-derived sense of architecture.” – R.W.I.

Arboreus

“One of the early success stories in the modern-day revival of skin-macerated white wines, Bea’s beloved “Arboreus” originates from exceedingly old Trebbiano vines in the village of Spoleto. A striking instance of non-standard training, these ancient vines wrap themselves around the trunks and branches of trees (hence the wine’s name), growing and ripening high above the ground. The wine’s palate is chiseled, markedly tannic (though well-balanced), and driven by resonant acidity, with the marzipan and apricot notes echoing strongly.” – R.W.I.

“The 2019 Lapideus is honeyed with dried peaches and apricots, complemented by spiced blood orange. This is lively and softly textured, soothing the senses with mineral-tinged pit fruits and sweet spices. It finishes with tension, puckering the cheeks as hints of nectarine and liquid stone slowly fade.” – E.G.

“The 2021 Lapideus is a deep golden hue. Its perfumed bouquet boasts incense and spice drops, freshly sliced nectarines and hints of clove. This floods the palate with round and supple textures offset by salty minerality and crisp orchard fruits. The 2021 gains a spicier personality with each passing second. It mixes sweet and sour through the contrasting finale, as tangerine and lemon rind traces fade slowly. This is beautifully balanced and exotic, having spent thirty-four days macerating on the skins and finished at just 11% abv. Fantastic.” – E.G.